Last updated: 2026-10-30 · By Fix It or Replace editorial team
Maytag Washer Not Draining? Drain Hose, Standpipe Height, Siphoning, Pump Filter, Suds, Lid and F9 E1 / drn Codes, Costs and Repair vs Replace (2026)
Quick answer
Maytag says a washer that won't drain is often an installation problem. Check these first, cheapest first:
- Drain hose kinked or clogged? Straighten it and clear any blockage in the hose, drainpipe, or utility sink.
- Hose too far into the standpipe? Only 4.5 in (113 mm) of drain hose should go into the standpipe or laundry tub. Use the U-shaped hose form that came with it. Deeper than that, water can siphon back.
- Taped in? Don't tape the hose into the drainpipe or cover the opening. It needs an air gap.
- Standpipe height. 96 in maximum. Maytag lists a 30 in minimum in its front-load and general drain guides, and a 39 in minimum in its top-load guidance. Too high and the pump can't push the water out; too low and water siphons out while filling.
- Front load: clean the drain pump filter (some models, usually behind the bottom drawer or front panel) and the small drain holes in the door seal.
- Too many suds? Use HE detergent and measure it. Maytag says excess suds can stop the washer from pumping and spinning (top-loads may show Sud).
- Lid or door closed? The washer only drains and spins with the lid or door securely closed.
- Run Drain & Spin on its own to see if it pumps out.
Codes: F9 E1 = long drain time. drn (top load) = not draining properly. F# E# = system error: press Start/Pause to clear, then again to restart; if it comes back, contact Maytag.
If those don't fix it, the usual part is the drain pump (jammed by a sock or coin, or failed), then a lid lock on top-loads, or the control board.
Repair or replace? Most drain problems cost nothing. A drain pump is a moderate repair that's usually worth it. See the calculator below.
Our partner pro call line is coming soon. Until then: if your appliance may still be under warranty, contact the manufacturer first. Otherwise, get two or three written quotes from local appliance repair companies, and ask about the diagnostic fee and the parts-and-labor warranty.
Verdict at a glance
| Your situation | What it usually means | Our verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Kinked hose, hose too deep or taped, standpipe wrong height, clogged pump filter or door-seal holes, suds, lid open, a Low/No Spin setting | Installation, cleaning, or use | ✅ Free fix |
| Pump hums but no water moves, or F9 E1 / drn keeps coming back after the hose and filter checks | Drain pump (jam or failure) | 🔧 Usually worth repairing |
| No pump sound at all, F# E# that won't clear, on a washer 8+ years old | Control board, wiring | ♻️ Get a quote, then compare |
Safety check before any DIY (30 seconds)
Stop and don't start the DIY steps below if any of these is true:
- Unplug the washer first before opening the pump filter or draining through the small hose (Maytag's step one).
- Expect a lot of water. Place a large, flat container and towels under the filter before you open it.
- The water is hot. Let it cool before draining by hand.
- The lid won't unlock (top load). Maytag's LdU code means objects on the lid are keeping it from unlocking. Clear the lid; don't force it.
- The washer is in year 1. Maytag covers all parts and labor for one year on laundry appliances made after 2017. Call Maytag first.
- Recall check: search your model on the CPSC recall site before paying for a repair.
Fix order at a glance (cheapest first)
| Order | What to try | Cost | DIY tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Close the lid or door; run Drain & Spin | Free | Easy |
| 2 | Straighten the drain hose; clear clogs | Free | Easy |
| 3 | Set hose depth to 4.5 in with the U-form; remove any tape | Free | Easy |
| 4 | Check standpipe height (max 96 in; min 30 or 39 in) | Free | Easy |
| 5 | Cut suds: HE detergent, measured; rinse | Free | Easy |
| 6 | Front load: clean the drain pump filter | Free | Moderate |
| 7 | Front load: clean the door-seal drain holes | Free | Easy |
| 8 | Clear F# E# (Start/Pause, then Start/Pause) | Free | Easy |
| 9 | Replace the drain hose | Part | Moderate |
| 10 | Replace the drain pump | Part, or pro visit | Advanced |
| 11 | Lid lock (top load) | Part, or pro visit | Moderate |
| 12 | Pressure switch or control board | Pro diagnosis first | Pro only |
DIY tiers: Easy (no tools) · Moderate (filter or drawer, pull the washer out, hose clamps) · Advanced (panels off, pump wiring) · Pro only (control board, or still under warranty).
Top load or front load?
| Top load | Front load | |
|---|---|---|
| Drain codes | drn, F9 E1 (long drain), Sud, LdL (lid not locking) | F9 E1 (long drain) |
| Standpipe minimum | 39 in (Maytag top-load guidance) | 30 in (Maytag front-load guidance) |
| Standpipe maximum | 96 in | 96 in from the bottom of the washer |
| Hose in standpipe | 4.5 in; Maytag says the factory hose form is correct; don't alter it | 4.5 in with the U-form |
| User-cleanable filter | Not usually | Drain pump filter on some models; door-seal drain holes |
| Lid/door | Lid must lock to spin | Door must latch |
Five-minute checks before you call anyone
- Lid or door. Close it firmly. On a top-loader, check for items under the lid and detergent build-up around the lid lock (LdL).
- Drain hose. Straighten it; clear any blockage. Remove anything crushing it behind the washer.
- Hose depth. Only 4.5 in in the standpipe. More than that can siphon water back into the washer.
- No tape. The hose should be loose, yet secure, with an air gap.
- Standpipe height. 96 in max; at least 30 in (front load) or 39 in (top load), measured from the floor.
- Suds. If you see suds, run a rinse and use measured HE detergent next time.
- Spin setting. Gentle, Delicate, and Hand Wash spin slowly and leave more water in the load. Maytag suggests Drain & Spin to remove extra water.
- Power failure? A power failure during spin can leave the washer short of full speed. Top-loads may show PF.
- Clear the code. For F# E#, press Start/Pause once to clear, then again to restart.
How to know it's fixed: a Drain & Spin empties the tub within a few minutes, the washer reaches full spin, and the code doesn't come back.
Maytag drain codes and clues
| Code or clue | What Maytag says it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| F9 E1 | Long drain time; the washer can't drain correctly | Hose installation, pump filter (front load), door-seal holes, standpipe |
| drn (top load) | Washer not draining properly; often an installation problem | Hose, standpipe, clogs |
| Sud (top load) | Excess suds | HE detergent, measured |
| LdL (top load) | Lid not locking | Items under the lid; clean detergent build-up |
| LdU (top load) | Lid can't unlock; objects on the lid | Remove baskets and objects |
| lid (top load) | Lid left open; after 10 minutes the cycle resets and drains | Close the lid; restart without more detergent |
| F# E# | System error | Start/Pause to clear, Start/Pause to restart; contact Maytag if it returns |
| Water refills or drains while filling | Siphoning: hose too deep, taped in, or standpipe too low | Fix depth, air gap, height |
| Clothes dripping, no code | Low/No Spin, gentle cycle, unbalanced load, power failure | Drain & Spin |
Which part each symptom points at, and how hard the fix is:
| Symptom | Part most often involved | First fix (free) | If it comes back | DIY tier |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| F9 E1, hose and standpipe OK (front load) | Pump filter, drain pump | Clean the filter | Drain pump | Moderate → Advanced |
| drn / F9 E1 (top load), hose OK | Drain pump (jammed or failed) | Drain & Spin | Drain pump | Advanced |
| Pump hums, water doesn't move | Pump jam or failed pump | Clean the filter (front load) | Drain pump | Advanced |
| LdL, won't spin or drain | Lid lock | Clear items; clean | Lid lock | Moderate |
| No pump sound, F# E# returns | Control board, wiring | Clear the code | Board | Pro only |
Codes and clues from Maytag's US Product Help articles "Washer Not Draining or Spinning? Troubleshooting Guide", "Not Draining - Front Load Washer", "F9 E1 - Front Load Washer", "F9E1 - Error Code" (top load), "Wet Clothes at the End of the Cycle - Washer", "Error Codes On Maytag Top Load Washers", and "Cleaning the Pump Filter - Front Load Washer" (sources 1–7), checked 2026-10-30. The open ApplianceDB sample (source 14) maps Samsung and LG codes to components and DIY difficulty; it has no Maytag entries, so we didn't use it here.
Diagnose by symptom → likely part
Before you touch parts: Unplug the washer. Turn off both water faucets. If there's water in the tub, drain it through the pump filter's small drain hose (front load) or the drain hose into a bucket on the floor, and keep towels handy.
1. Front load: F9 E1 or water left in the drum
Likely causes: a clogged drain pump filter (Maytag: dirt, lint, or other items), clogged door-seal drain holes, or the drain hose installation.
How to clean the filter (Maytag's method for models with a storage drawer):
- Unplug the washer.
- Open the storage drawer and remove it: push down on the tab on the right side and up on the tab on the left side.
- Put a large, flat container under the filter. Release the black hose from its clip, remove the plug, and drain the water. Replace the plug and clip the hose back.
- Lay a towel down. Turn the filter counterclockwise to remove it.
- Pull off lint by hand and rinse the filter.
- Turn it back in clockwise as far as it goes, with the handle as close to vertical as possible.
- Reinstall the drawer, inserting both rails at once until they click.
Maytag suggests cleaning it every few months, or as needed. Models without a drawer have a front access panel; check your Owner's Manual.
| Part | What it does | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Drain pump filter | Catches lint and small items before the pump | Moderate |
2. Hose and standpipe problems (any washer)
Likely causes: a kinked or clogged hose, a hose pushed too deep or taped, or a standpipe that's too high (over 96 in) or too low.
Signs: the washer drains while it's filling (siphoning), or water flows back into the tub.
DIY difficulty: Easy to Moderate.
| Part | What it does | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Drain hose | Carries water to the standpipe | Moderate |
3. Pump hums but no water moves
Likely causes: something jammed in the pump (a sock, coin, or small item), or a failed drain pump.
DIY difficulty: Advanced.
| Part | What it does | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Drain pump | Pumps water out | Advanced |
4. Top load: LdL and no drain or spin
Likely causes: an item or detergent build-up keeping the lid from locking (Maytag), or a failing lid lock.
DIY difficulty: Moderate.
| Part | What it does | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Lid lock / lid switch | Locks the lid and tells the control it's closed | Moderate |
5. No pump sound, and F# E# keeps coming back
Likely causes: the control board, wiring, or a pressure switch. These need a technician.
DIY difficulty: Pro only.
Hose straight, 4.5 in deep, standpipe right, filter clean, and still full of water? A technician can test the pump and control in one visit.
Partner pro call line coming soon. See “who services” below for your options.
Independent partner service, not Maytag or Whirlpool Corporation. We may be paid when you call.
Prevent it next time
- Empty pockets. Coins, pins, and small items end up in the pump.
- Use measured HE detergent to avoid suds.
- Front load: clean the drain pump filter every few months and wipe the door seal.
- Keep the drain hose at 4.5 in, untaped, and unkinked when you push the washer back.
- Wash small items in a mesh bag.
- Don't leave baskets on the lid of a top-loader.
Related guides
- Maytag washer not spinning
- Whirlpool washer won't drain
- GE washer not draining
- Samsung washer not draining
What Maytag's warranty covers on a washer
Per Maytag's US "10-Year Limited Parts Warranty" page (see Sources); your model's warranty document has the final terms:
| Period | What's covered | Who pays labor |
|---|---|---|
| Year 1 | All parts and labor (Maytag major laundry appliances made after 2017) | Maytag |
| Years 2–10 | Limited parts coverage on the drive motor and wash basket (washers) | You pay labor |
| Bonus (named models) | MVW6230RH: 5-year limited parts and labor, then parts-only on the motor and basket to year 10. MVWP586GW: all parts and labor for 5 years, plus the 10-year parts coverage (single-family, non-commercial use) | See model warranty |
What this means for a drain problem: in year 1, a failed pump, lid lock, or board is covered. After year 1, the drain pump, hoses, lid lock, and board aren't on the 10-year parts list, so they're on you unless your model has bonus coverage or you have an extended service plan. Installation problems (hose depth, standpipe height, tape) and suds aren't defects.
→ Maytag: 10-year limited parts warranty and model lookup · Maytag Customer Service 1-800-344-1274 (from Maytag Product Help)
Before you pay for any repair: a 4-point check
- Warranty: year 1 parts and labor; check for bonus coverage on your model; retailer or credit-card extended protection.
- Recalls: search your model at cpsc.gov/Recalls. A recall repair is free.
- Free fixes done: lid, hose, depth, tape, standpipe, suds, pump filter, door-seal holes, Drain & Spin, code clear.
- Written quote: ask for part, labor, and trip fee as separate lines, and ask whether the pump was jammed (cheaper) or failed.
What it costs: repair parts and pro service (2026)
How we price this table: DIY part prices are OEM Whirlpool-family part numbers (Maytag is a Whirlpool Corporation brand; W, WP, WPW, and legacy numbers) listed on Sears PartsDirect public search pages for "maytag washer …" searches (S-list under Sources), USD before tax and shipping; ranges span several part numbers because the right part depends on your model number. Pro costs tagged [GUIDE] come from two US cost guides (Fixr = G1, HomeGuide = G2): national averages for washers in general unless marked brand-specific, not Maytag quotes. "Varies — get a quote" means neither guide itemizes that repair, so we don't show a number.
| Repair | Part cost (DIY) | Typical pro cost (parts + labor) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lid, hose, depth, standpipe, suds, filter cleaning | $0 | — | Do these first |
| Washer won't drain (diagnose and fix) | — | [GUIDE] won't drain $150–$300 (G1) | |
| Drain pump filter | $51.96 (W10241027) [S2] | — | Front load, some models |
| Drain hose | $17.84–$95.99 (WP8182767 to 12001807) [S3] | [GUIDE] drain hose $95–$170 (G1); $100–$200 (G2) | |
| Drain pump | $35.14–$249.70 (WP3363394 to WPW10321032) [S1] | [GUIDE] pump replacement $300–$400 (G1); pump $150–$350, part $20–$100 (G2) | Most common real part |
| Lid switch | $28.60–$132.11 (WP8318084 to WP22004243) [S4] | [GUIDE] lid switch $85–$160 (G1); door lock or lid switch $100–$300 (G2) | |
| Lid lock / door lock | $49.07–$244.86 (W10404050 to WP22003593) [S5] | [GUIDE] door lock $110–$200 (G1); door lock or lid switch $100–$300 (G2) | |
| Pressure switch | $12.55–$247.71 (WP22002921 to WPW10415587) [S6] | [GUIDE] pressure switch $100–$225 (G1) | Diagnose first |
| Electronic control board | $171.58–$396.95 (W10480130 to W10393448) [S7] | [GUIDE] motherboard $250–$400 (G1); control board $350–$550 (G2) | Diagnose first |
| Maytag washer repair (brand range) | — | [GUIDE] Maytag $175–$350 (G1, brand-specific, all repair types) | |
| Diagnosis / service fee | — | [GUIDE] diagnosis visit $50–$100 (G1); minimum service fee $70–$130, then $50–$125 per hour (G2) | |
| New comparable washer | — | [GUIDE] $650–$2,100 (G1); $700–$1,300 (G2); all brands |
Part prices checked 2026-10-30 on Sears PartsDirect public search pages (S1–S7). Pro-cost cells tagged [GUIDE] from G1 (Fixr) and G2 (HomeGuide), re-read 2026-10-30; [GUIDE] figures are national averages, not Maytag-specific quotes except where marked. Prices change; confirm with your model number.
Tip: clean the pump filter (front load) and fix the hose depth before you pay for a pump. Those two fixes clear many F9 E1 codes.
Repair vs. replace calculator
1. What's the all-in repair cost? → R = trip/diagnostic fee + part + labor + tax, minus anything Maytag's warranty (or a recall) covers
2. What does a comparable new washer cost, all-in? → N = unit + delivery + installation + haul-away
3. How old is your washer, and how long should it last? → Age and Life (use about 10 years, near the middle of HomeGuide's 8–13-year range, if you don't know)
4. How much have you spent on repairs in the last 2 years? → Past
Step A — Cost ratio: R ÷ N
Step B — Life used: Age ÷ Life
Step C — Repeat-repair check: (R + Past) ÷ N
| Life used under 50% | Life used over 50% | |
|---|---|---|
| Repair under 50% of new | ✅ Repair | 🤔 Repair is usually fine. Check for other wear |
| Repair over 50% of new | 🤔 Get a second quote first | ❌ Replace |
Repeat-repair rule: if Step C is over 50%, treat it like the bottom-right box: money keeps going into the same machine. If the part is no longer available for your model, that decides it.
Worked example 1 (illustrative numbers): A 2-year-old Maytag front-loader shows F9 E1. The pump filter is packed with lint and a hair tie. Cleaning it fixes the drain. R = $0.
→ Not a repair.
Worked example 2 (illustrative numbers): A 6-year-old Maytag top-loader hums but won't drain; a tech replaces the drain pump. R = $280; N = $900; no other repairs.
280 ÷ 900 = 31%; life used 6 ÷ 10 = 60%; repeat check 31% → Repair is usually fine (top-right box).
Worked example 3 (illustrative numbers): A 10-year-old Maytag washer needs a control board: R = $480. It had a drain pump last year for $300. N = $850.
480 ÷ 850 = 56%; life used 10 ÷ 10 = 100%; repeat check (480 + 300) ÷ 850 = 92% → Replace.
Tips toward replacing: the washer is 8+ years old, it needs a board, or a second repair within about 2 years.
Tips toward repairing: it's a pump, hose, or lid lock, the drum spins quietly, or it's in year 1.
Why 50%? It's the common rule of thumb, and the one we use. Some technician checklists draw the line a little higher, at about 60% of a new washer's price, so treat a repair that costs 50–60% of new as a second-quote zone, not an automatic replace. The older the washer, the lower the line should go.
Who services Maytag washers near you
1. Maytag (warranty or official service). In year 1, start with Maytag. Have your model and serial number ready.
→ Maytag Product Help: schedule service · 1-800-344-1274
2. A partner appliance pro (out of warranty).
Our call line connects you with an independent appliance repair provider in your area. Tell them top load or front load, the code (F9 E1, drn, LdL), whether the pump hums, and what you've checked.
Our partner pro call line is coming soon. Until then: if your appliance may still be under warranty, contact the manufacturer first. Otherwise, get two or three written quotes from local appliance repair companies, and ask about the diagnostic fee and the parts-and-labor warranty.
3. A plumber. If the standpipe or laundry sink is clogged, or the standpipe height needs changing.
4. DIY with the right part. Pump filters and drain hoses are manageable. Order by your exact model number.
Questions to ask any technician:
- Was the pump jammed or failed?
- Is the standpipe height right for this model?
- Is the lid lock working?
- Is any part covered by Maytag's warranty?
Optional: is an appliance warranty worth it?
A home warranty (service contract) can cover repairs for a yearly fee plus a per-visit service fee. Read the exclusions carefully: plans often exclude clogs from foreign objects and installation problems. A washer that's already broken is usually not covered.
FAQ
Why is my Maytag washer not draining?
Maytag says it's often an installation problem: a kinked or clogged hose, a hose pushed more than 4.5 in into the standpipe, tape over the drain, or a standpipe that's too high or too low. On front loads, also clean the drain pump filter.
What does F9 E1 mean on a Maytag washer?
Long drain time. Check the drain hose installation, the pump filter (front load), and the door-seal drain holes.
What does drn mean on a Maytag top-load washer?
The washer isn't draining properly. Maytag says it's sometimes an installation problem.
How high should the standpipe be?
96 in maximum. Maytag lists 30 in minimum in its front-load guidance and 39 in minimum in its top-load guidance.
How do I clean a Maytag washer drain pump filter?
Unplug the washer, remove the storage drawer, drain the water through the small black hose into a flat container, turn the filter counterclockwise, rinse it, and turn it back in clockwise.
Can too much detergent stop my washer from draining?
Yes. Maytag says excess suds can stop the washer from pumping water and spinning. Use measured HE detergent.
How much does it cost to fix a Maytag washer that won't drain?
Often nothing. OEM drain pumps were about $35 to $250 on Sears PartsDirect when we checked on 2026-10-30. Fixr puts fixing a washer that won't drain at $150 to $300.
About the author
Fix It or Replace editorial team — We research appliance repairs using manufacturer documentation, parts-supplier data, and current US cost guides, and we cite every source below. We are not appliance technicians; for anything involving wiring or plumbing you're unsure about, call a qualified pro.
Last updated: 2026-10-30.
Sources
- Maytag US Product Help: "Washer Not Draining or Spinning? Troubleshooting Guide" (lid or door switch, operates only when securely closed; unbalanced or overloaded; spin speed by cycle; excessive suds can stop pumping and spinning; installation error; drain hose kinks or clogs, U-shaped form; standpipe 96 in max and 30 in min; front-load drain pump filter on some models). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Product_Info/Washer_Product_Assistance/Washer_Not_Draining_or_Spinning%3F_Troubleshooting_Guide (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "Not Draining - Front Load Washer" (drain pump filter, some models; drain hose no more than 4.5 in (113 mm) into the drainpipe, U-form; siphoning; don't tape; air gap; standpipe at least 30 in from the floor). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Front_Load_Washers/Cycle_Concerns/Not_Draining/Not_Draining_-_Front_Load_Washer (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "F9 E1 - Front Load Washer" (long drain time; drain hose installation, pump filter, door seal or bellow drain holes; 4.5 in; 96 in max from the bottom of the washer; no tape; filter behind the bottom drawer on some models). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Front_Load_Washers/Error_Codes/%22F%22_Error_Codes/F9_E1_-_Front_Load_Washer (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "F9E1 - Error Code" (top load; long drain; hose not too far down the standpipe beyond the elbow, siphoning, slow or no spin; factory hose form is correct and should not be altered; no tape; kinks or clogs; Customer Service 1-800-344-1274). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Top_Load_Washer/Error_Codes_or_Flashing_Lights/%22F%22_Codes/F9E1_-_Error_Code (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "Wet Clothes at the End of the Cycle - Washer" (top load; out-of-balance self-correction; Bulky or Sheets/Bedding; Add a Garment; standing water: U-form, 4.5 in, no tape, standpipe 96 in max and 39 in min, kinks; level; Low or No Spin; Drain & Spin; power failure). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Top_Load_Washer/Cycle_Concerns/Wet_Clothes_at_the_End_of_the_Cycle_-_Washer (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "Error Codes On Maytag Top Load Washers" (drn not draining properly, sometimes installation; F# E# system error, Start/Pause to clear and again to restart; LdL lid not locking, items or detergent build-up; LdU objects on lid; lid open over 10 minutes resets and drains; OL; PF; Sud HE detergent). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Product_Info/Washer_Product_Assistance/Error_Codes_in_Top_Load_HE_Washers (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US Product Help: "Cleaning the Pump Filter - Front Load Washer" (every few months or as needed; front bottom; unplug; large container; drain tube; counterclockwise to remove; rinse; clockwise to reinstall, handle near vertical; storage-drawer tabs; drawer rails click). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Washers/Product_Info/Washer_Cleaning_and_Care/Cleaning_the_Pump_Filter_-_Front_Load_Washer (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Maytag US: "Maytag 10-Year Limited Parts Warranty" (all major kitchen and laundry appliances made after 2017; all parts and labor in year one; washers: drive motor and wash basket; MVW6230RH 5-year limited parts and labor plus parts-only motor and basket; MVWP586GW all parts and labor for 5 years plus 10-year limited parts, single-family non-commercial use). https://www.maytag.com/services/limited-10-year-warranty.html (accessed 2026-10-30)
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission: recalls search. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls (accessed 2026-10-30)
- Federal Trade Commission: endorsement and affiliate disclosure guidance. https://www.ftc.gov/business-guidance/resources/ftcs-endorsement-guides-what-people-are-asking
- Part prices: Sears PartsDirect public search pages, see S-list below (accessed 2026-10-30).
- Repair cost guides: Fixr (G1) and HomeGuide (G2), see list below (accessed 2026-10-30).
- Maytag US Product Help hub. https://producthelp.maytag.com/ (accessed 2026-10-30)
- ApplianceDB free developer sample (checked for Maytag US washer codes; none in the sample, so not used for this page's tables). Data under the Open Database License (ODbL) v1.0. https://github.com/ApplianceDB/ApplianceDB-public (accessed 2026-10-30)
Part price sources (Sears PartsDirect public search results, USD, accessed 2026-10-30; Whirlpool-family part numbers only; strikes, clips, extension kits, adapters, other brands, and dishwasher parts excluded; prices change, confirm with your model number):
- S1. Search "maytag washer drain pump": WP3363394 $35.14, WPW10661045 $50.55, WPW10605427 $51.75, WPW10581874 $81.54, WP3363892 $81.60, WPW10409079 $87.86, W10876600 $103.67, WPW10403802 $149.96, WP25001052 $151.05, WP34001098 $151.86, WP22003059 $151.87, WP34001320 $195.40, W10919003 $204.68, WPW10321032 $249.70. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20drain%20pump
- S2. Same search: drain pump filter W10241027 $51.96.
- S3. Search "maytag washer drain hose": WP8182767 $17.84, W11281268 $24.41, WPW10003250 $29.52, WPW10236686 $37.64, WP213045 $39.71, 285666 $41.25, WP22003410 $42.79, WPW10267642 $45.30, WP8181737 $46.51, WPW10114608 $47.03, WPW10363893 $50.17, W11551765 $51.24, WPW10096921 $54.87, 12001807 $95.99 (pump hoses, tub-to-pump hoses, and extension kits excluded). https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20drain%20hose
- S4. Search "maytag washer lid switch": WP8318084 $28.60, WP3355458 $36.03, WP207166 $41.33, WP8054980 $110.62, WP22004243 $132.11 (plungers, actuators, brackets, terminals excluded). https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20lid%20switch
- S5. Search "maytag washer door lock": W10404050 lid lock $49.07, WPW10443885 $64.00, WPW10482836 $78.57, WP8183270 $134.79, WPW10306374 $146.33, WPW10253483 $158.95, WPW10192995 $172.13, WP22004435 $183.27, WPW10375379 $200.52, WP22003593 $244.86 (strikes, clips, switches, latch hooks excluded). https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20door%20lock
- S6. Search "maytag washer pressure switch": WP22002921 $12.55, WPW10448876 $42.60, W11417623 $45.42, WPW10231400 $88.95, WPW10304342 $89.42, W10337781 $104.46, WPW10514214 $110.17, WP22004188 $111.74, WP21001554 $114.61, WPW10268911 $120.45, WPW10231402 $129.39, WPW10249845 sensor $145.77, WPW10271610 $156.96, WPW10663966 $186.44, WPW10415587 $247.71 (hoses and non-washer parts excluded). https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20pressure%20switch
- S7. Search "maytag washer control board": Maytag electronic control boards W10480130 $171.58 to W10393448 $396.95 (17 Maytag-labeled boards listed). https://www.searspartsdirect.com/search?q=maytag%20washer%20control%20board
Pro-cost guide sources [GUIDE] (US national averages, parts + labor, not brand-specific quotes unless marked; the guide pages carry 2023–2025 dates, so local quotes may differ):
- G1. Fixr, "How much does it cost to repair a washing machine?" (updated January 31, 2025): average $150–$400; won't drain $150–$300; drain hose $95–$170; pressure switch $100–$225; lid switch $85–$160; door lock $110–$200; pump $300–$400; motherboard $250–$400; Maytag washer repair $175–$350; diagnosis visit $50–$100; replacement $650–$2,100. https://www.fixr.com/costs/washing-machine-repair (accessed 2026-10-30)
- G2. HomeGuide, "How Much Does Washing Machine Repair Cost?" (byline April 5, 2023): average $100–$400; door lock or lid switch $100–$300; pump $150–$350 (part $20–$100); drain hose $100–$200; control board $350–$550; minimum service fee $70–$130, then $50–$125 per hour; new washer $700–$1,300; washers last 8–13 years. https://homeguide.com/costs/washing-machine-repair-cost (accessed 2026-10-30)
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Fix It or Replace is an independent site. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Maytag or Whirlpool Corporation. "Maytag" is a trademark of its owner and is used here only to describe the products we cover.
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- Prices are estimates and change often. Always get a written quote.
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