Last updated: 2026-10-30 · By Fix It or Replace editorial team

Maytag Dryer Not Heating? Breakers, Gas Valve, Vent and Thermal Fuse Fixes, Codes, Costs and Repair vs Replace (2026)

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Quick answer

First, prove it's really not heating. Maytag's own test: choose a heated Timed Dry cycle, run the dryer empty for 5 minutes, then open the door and feel inside. If the drum is warm, heat is working and your real problem is slow drying (most often the vent or the load), not heat.

If it's cold, work through Maytag's checks, cheapest first:

  1. Air Only / Air Fluff selected? Those cycles tumble with no heat. Maytag notes they work best on Timed Dry, so a leftover setting is easy to miss.
  2. Electric dryers: check both breakers. Maytag says an electric dryer needs a separate 30-amp circuit with two breakers: one runs the motor and one runs the heat. If only the heat side trips, the drum still turns but stays cold.
  3. Electric: check the 240 V supply and power cord. A 3- or 4-wire cord connected wrong, or loose terminal screws, can stop heat. Maytag's L2 code means low or no line voltage.
  4. Gas dryers: is the gas shutoff open? Maytag says the valve is open when the handle is parallel to the pipe. Gas dryers also need their household breaker or fuse on.
  5. Clean the lint screen and the vent. Maytag's AF (or F4 E3) code means restricted airflow. Maytag says clean the home vent every one to two years, or sooner if drying slows.

If those don't fix it, the usual failed parts are a blown thermal fuse or thermal cut-off (often caused by a blocked vent), a burned-out heating element (electric), a failed igniter, gas valve coils or flame (radiant) sensor (gas), a high-limit or cycling thermostat, or a thermistor (Maytag's F3 E1 points at the exhaust thermistor).

Repair or replace? Most no-heat parts are inexpensive, and Maytag dryers built after 2017 have a 10-year limited parts warranty on the drive motor and dryer drum, but not on the element or igniter, so those are on you after year 1. A control board on an old dryer is where replacing starts to win. Use the calculator below.

Need a repair pro?
Our partner pro call line is coming soon. Until then: if your appliance may still be under warranty, contact the manufacturer first. Otherwise, get two or three written quotes from local appliance repair companies, and ask about the diagnostic fee and the parts-and-labor warranty.

Verdict at a glance

Your situationWhat it usually meansOur verdict
Drum turns, no heat, and a breaker had tripped, the gas valve was closed, or Air Only was set; or it's warm but clothes stay dampPower, gas supply, cycle choice, or a blocked ventโœ… Free fix. Reset, open, reselect; clean the vent
Cold every cycle with power, gas, and vent all OKThermal fuse / cut-off, element, igniter, valve coils, thermostat๐Ÿ”ง Usually worth repairing. Parts are inexpensive; fix the vent too
Dryer is 10+ years old and needs a control board, or it's the second big repair in about 2 yearsWear on several systemsโ™ป๏ธ Lean toward replacing. Run the numbers in the calculator first

Safety check before any DIY (30 seconds)

Stop and don't start the DIY steps below if any of these is true:

If none of these apply, the free checks below are safe for most owners. Always unplug the dryer (and close the gas shutoff on gas models) before you remove a panel.

Fix order at a glance (cheapest first)

OrderWhat to tryCostDIY tier
1Run Maytag's 5-minute empty heat test on a heated Timed Dry cycleFreeEasy
2Make sure Air Only / Air Fluff isn't selectedFreeEasy
3Electric: reset both breakers (or replace both fuses)FreeEasy
4Gas: open the gas shutoff (handle parallel to the pipe); check the household breakerFreeEasy
5Clean the lint screen; clear the vent run and the outside hoodFreeEasy
6Clear a code: breaker off (1 minute for F3 E1, 5 minutes for L2), then a Timed Dry testFreeEasy
7Replace the thermal fuse / thermal cut-off kit (after fixing the vent)Part onlyModerate
8Electric: replace the heating element, high-limit or cycling thermostatPart, or pro visitModerate
9Gas: igniter, valve coils, flame (radiant) sensorPro visit recommendedPro only
10Thermistor, control board, wiringPro diagnosis firstAdvanced

DIY tiers: Easy (no panels off) ยท Moderate (a panel off, power off) ยท Advanced (wiring or several parts) ยท Pro only (gas, mains wiring, or still under warranty).

Which Maytag dryer do you have?

Find the model and serial number on the label inside the door opening or on the back of the dryer. You need it to order the right fuse, element, or igniter, and to check your warranty term on Maytag's site.

TypeModel prefix (examples)How it heatsUsual no-heat partsNotes
ElectricUsually MED (e.g., MED6230RH, MEDP586KW)Heating element on a 240 V, 30-amp circuit with two breakersThermal fuse, thermal cut-off, element, high-limit and cycling thermostatsOne tripped breaker = drum turns, no heat
GasUsually MGD (e.g., MGD6230RH, MGDP586KW)Gas burner with igniter, valve coils, and flame (radiant) sensorIgniter, valve coils, flame sensor, thermal fuseRuns on a standard household circuit; gas shutoff must be open
Commercial-style, stacked, or older modelsVaries (check the label)Electric or gasSee your Use and Care GuidePart numbers differ; order by model

Model prefixes are examples from Maytag's own warranty page, not a full list. Maytag is part of the Whirlpool family, so many Maytag dryers use W / WP / WPW part numbers. Always order by your exact model number.

Five-minute checks before you call anyone

  1. Do Maytag's heat test. Heated Timed Dry, empty drum, 5 minutes, then feel inside. Warm means the heat works; skip to the vent step. Cold means keep going.
  2. Check the cycle. Air Only / Air Fluff never heats. Switch to a heated Timed Dry setting and retest.
  3. Electric: check both breakers. Look for two linked breakers (or two fuses) for the dryer. Switch them fully off, then on. Maytag says one breaker runs the motor and one runs the heat, so a dryer can tumble cold when only one has tripped.
  4. Electric: check the voltage and cord. Maytag requires 240 V on a separate 30-amp circuit. If the dryer was just installed or moved, check that the 3- or 4-wire cord was connected per the installation instructions and that the terminal screws are tight (unplug first). For an L2 code, Maytag's steps are: breakers off for 5 minutes, back on, run a Timed Dry cycle and watch for 5 minutes; if it returns, call an electrician to check the supply.
  5. Gas: check the shutoff valve. Handle parallel to the pipe = open. Also check the dryer's household breaker or fuse; a gas dryer still needs household power to run its igniter and controls.
  6. Clean the lint screen and check the vent. Pull the dryer out, check the duct for crushed or kinked foil, and make sure the outside flap opens when the dryer runs. Maytag says clean the venting every one to two years, or sooner if drying slows. Maytag also sells a dryer vent test kit (part W11224254).
  7. Clear an F3 E1. Maytag's steps: breaker off for 1 minute, back on, start a Timed Dry cycle, and watch for 1 minute. If the code returns, the thermistor circuit needs service.

How to know it's fixed: the 5-minute empty test is warm, a normal load dries in a normal time, and no code comes back over the next few loads.

Maytag dryer codes linked to "not heating"

Maytag lists these on its US Product Help pages. Codes vary by model and control.

CodeMaytag's meaningWhat to do
AF or F4 E3 ("Check Vent")Restricted airflow: lint screen or vent clogged, or the vent is crushed, kinked, or too longClean the screen and vent; touch any key to clear. The dryer keeps running
L2Low or no line voltage; can keep the heater off. Shows at initial installCheck both breakers / fuses and the cord installation; breakers off 5 minutes, Timed Dry test; electrician if it persists
F3 E1Exhaust thermistor problemBreaker off 1 minute, on, Timed Dry; service if it returns
Other F# E#The control detected a problem that requires serviceContact Maytag or schedule service
PFPower failure interrupted the cycleTouch and hold START, or press POWER to clear

Which part each code points at, and how hard the fix is:

CodePart most often involvedFirst fix (free)If it comes backDIY tier
AF / F4 E3Vent, lint screen; can lead to a blown thermal fuseClean screen and ventVent repair; thermal fuseEasy โ†’ Moderate
L2House supply; power cordBreakers; cord checkElectrician; terminal blockPro only
F3 E1Exhaust thermistor and its connectorBreaker resetThermistorModerate
Other F# E#Control board or wiringBreaker resetBoardAdvanced

Code meanings from Maytag's US Product Help pages "Error Codes in Dryers", "L2 - Error Code - Dryer", and "F3 E1 - Error Code - Dryer" (sources 3โ€“5), checked directly 2026-10-30. The open ApplianceDB sample (source 11) covers Samsung and LG codes with component, ranked-fix, and DIY-difficulty fields; it has no Maytag dryer entries, so we used Maytag's own pages for every code here. Codes vary by model; your owner's manual has the final list.

Diagnose by symptom โ†’ likely part

Before you touch parts: Unplug the dryer. On gas dryers, also close the gas shutoff. Let it cool. Test parts with a multimeter for continuity before you replace them; a part that tests good isn't the problem.

1. Electric or gas: no heat at all, drum turns, power and gas are fine

Likely causes: a blown thermal fuse (usually on the blower or exhaust housing) or thermal cut-off (on the heater housing on many electric models). These are one-time safety parts that blow when the dryer overheats, usually because of a restricted vent.

Signs: no continuity across the fuse; heavy lint in the vent or behind the dryer; heat stopped after a run of very long cycles or an AF code.

DIY difficulty: Moderate (back or lower panel off).

Call a pro if: the new fuse blows again. That means a vent, thermostat, or element problem still exists.

PartWhat it doesDIY difficulty
Thermal fuseOne-time safety fuse that cuts heat if the dryer overheatsModerate
Thermal cut-off kit (often sold with a high-limit thermostat)Cuts heater power at a set temperatureModerate

2. Electric only: fuse is fine, still no heat

Likely causes: a burned-out heating element (a visible break in the coil), or a failed high-limit or cycling (operating) thermostat.

Signs: no continuity across the element; the coil is broken or sagging against the housing; both breakers and the 240 V supply check out.

DIY difficulty: Moderate.

PartWhat it doesDIY difficulty
Heating elementHeats the air (electric dryers)Moderate
High-limit thermostatShuts off heat if the heater housing overheatsModerate
Cycling / operating thermostatCycles the heat on and off to hold dryer temperatureModerate

3. Gas only: igniter glows but no flame, or no glow at all

Likely causes: weak gas valve coils (glow, then no flame), a failed igniter (no glow), or a failed flame (radiant) sensor.

Signs: igniter glows, goes out, and no flame appears (coils); igniter never glows (igniter or sensor); flame lights and then drops out mid-cycle (coils).

DIY difficulty: Pro only unless you're trained to work on gas appliances.

PartWhat it doesDIY difficulty
IgniterLights the gasPro only
Gas valve coilsOpen the gas valve once the igniter is hotPro only
Flame (radiant) sensorTells the control the igniter is hot / flame is litPro only

4. Heats a little, then stops; or F3 E1

Likely causes: a failing thermistor (F3 E1 = exhaust thermistor), a weak cycling thermostat, or a partly blocked vent.

Signs: short bursts of heat; long cycles; F3 E1 comes back after a reset.

DIY difficulty: Moderate.

PartWhat it doesDIY difficulty
Exhaust / inlet thermistorReports air temperature to the controlModerate

5. No heat and nothing on the display

Likely causes: no power at all. That's a power problem, not a heat problem: a tripped breaker, an unplugged or loose cord, or (rarely) a failed control.

What to do: check the household breakers and outlet first. Maytag's "No Power - Electric Dryer" page walks through the same supply checks. If the dryer has power and still shows nothing, a technician should test the control.

Not sure if it's the fuse, the element, or the igniter? A technician can test the heat circuit in one visit and, on gas dryers, work safely around the burner.
Partner pro call line coming soon. See “who services” below for your options.
Independent partner service, not Maytag. We may be paid when you call.

Prevent it next time

What Maytag's warranty covers on a dryer

Per Maytag's US "10-Year Limited Parts Warranty" page (read 2026-10-30), for major appliances made after 2017:

PeriodWhat's coveredWho pays labor
Year 1All parts and labor for defectsMaytag
Years 2โ€“10Limited parts on the dryer drive motor and dryer drum onlyYou
Some models, longerMED6230RH / MGD6230RH: labor also covered for the first 5 years (5-year limited parts and labor, plus 5-year limited parts on the drive motor and drum). MEDP586KW / MGDP586KW: all parts and labor for 5 years (single-family, non-commercial use)Maytag, within those terms

What this means for a dryer that won't heat: the heating element, igniter, valve coils, thermostats, thermal fuse, and control board are not on the 10-year parts list for dryers. They're covered in year 1 (or the 5-year term on the models above) and on your dime after that. Tripped breakers, a closed gas valve, Air Only settings, wrong cord installation, and blocked vents aren't defects. Maytag also says you can save on an extended service plan if you buy within 30 days of purchase. Keep your proof of purchase; Maytag Customer Service is 1-800-344-1274.

โ†’ Maytag: 10-year limited parts warranty ยท Maytag Product Help

Before you pay for any repair: a 4-point check

  1. Warranty: year 1 parts and labor; the 5-year terms on the models above; the 10-year parts list (drive motor, drum); and retailer or credit-card extended protection.
  2. Recalls: search your model at the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's recall site: cpsc.gov/Recalls. A recall repair is free.
  3. Free fixes done: heat test, Air Only, both breakers, gas valve, vent. Many no-heat calls end there.
  4. Written quote: ask for part, labor, and trip fee as separate lines, and ask whether the tech checked the vent.

What it costs: repair parts and pro service (2026)

How we price this table: DIY part prices are OEM Whirlpool-family part numbers (W, WP, WPW, and legacy numbers that fit Maytag dryers) listed on Sears PartsDirect public search pages for "maytag dryer โ€ฆ" searches (S-list under Sources), USD before tax and shipping; ranges span several part numbers because the right part depends on your model number. Pro costs tagged [GUIDE] come from two US cost guides (Fixr = G1, HomeGuide = G2): national averages for dryers in general unless marked brand-specific, not Maytag quotes. "Varies โ€” get a quote" means neither guide itemizes that repair, so we don't show a number.

RepairPart cost (DIY)Typical pro cost (parts + labor)Notes
Heat test, Air Only, breakers, gas valve, lint screen$0โ€”Do these first
Vent cleaningโ€”[GUIDE] clogged vent $80โ€“$185; vent replacement $100โ€“$300 (G2); vent replacement $75โ€“$150 (G1)Fix this with any fuse repair
Thermal fuse$15.08โ€“$49.40 (WP40113801 to WP33001762) [S2][GUIDE] thermal fuse $75โ€“$150 (G2)Fix the vent too
Thermal cut-off kit$12.99โ€“$110.38 (W11050897 to W10154212) [S2]Varies โ€” get a quote (not itemized separately)Electric models
Heating element (electric)$41.92โ€“$198.50 (WPY313538 to WP8182528) [S1][GUIDE] heating element $150โ€“$350 (G1, G2)
High-limit thermostat$13.74โ€“$78.59 (WP3977767 to WP3391914) [S3][GUIDE] thermostat $100โ€“$260 (G1); $100โ€“$300 (G2)
Cycling / operating thermostat$39.66โ€“$98.40 (WP694674 to WP33303391) [S4]Same as above
Igniter (gas)$28.26โ€“$71.63 (279311 kit to WP33002789) [S5][GUIDE] igniter $100โ€“$250 (G1, G2)Pro recommended
Gas valve coils (gas)$26.08โ€“$68.11 (279834 kit, WPW10368268, WPW10328463) [S6][GUIDE] coil $150โ€“$300 (G1); $100โ€“$200 (G2)Pro recommended
Flame (radiant) sensor (gas)$25.91 (WP338906) [S7]Varies โ€” get a quote (not itemized in G1/G2)Pro recommended
Thermistor$26.56โ€“$98.77 (WP8577274 to W11396709) [S8]Varies โ€” get a quote (not itemized in G1/G2)F3 E1
Control boardVaries โ€” get a quote (not priced in this pass)[GUIDE] control board $250โ€“$500 (G2)Diagnose first
Maytag dryer repair (brand range)โ€”[GUIDE] Maytag $100โ€“$550 (G1, brand-specific, all repair types)Widest brand range in G1's table
Service call / diagnostic feeโ€”[GUIDE] $50โ€“$80 service fee, labor $50โ€“$100 per hour (G1); $70โ€“$130 minimum service fee, $50โ€“$125 per hour (G2)
New comparable dryerโ€”[GUIDE] $600โ€“$1,500 (G1); $800โ€“$1,200 unit (G2); all brandsAdd delivery, install, haul-away

Part prices checked 2026-10-30 on Sears PartsDirect public search pages (S1โ€“S8). Pro-cost cells tagged [GUIDE] from G1 (Fixr) and G2 (HomeGuide), re-read 2026-10-30; [GUIDE] figures are national averages, not Maytag-specific quotes except where marked. Prices change; confirm with your model number.

Tip: if the thermal fuse blew, budget for vent cleaning at the same time. A new fuse on a blocked vent often blows again.

Repair vs. replace calculator

1. What's the all-in repair cost? โ†’ R = trip/diagnostic fee + part + labor + tax (+ vent cleaning if needed), minus anything Maytag's warranty (or a recall) covers
2. What does a comparable new dryer cost, all-in? โ†’ N = unit + delivery + installation + haul-away (+ a new cord, vent kit, or gas connector)
3. How old is your dryer, and how long should it last? โ†’ Age and Life (use about 10 years, inside Fixr's 8โ€“12-year and HomeGuide's 8โ€“13-year ranges, if you don't know)
4. How much have you spent on repairs in the last 2 years? โ†’ Past

Step A โ€” Cost ratio: R รท N
Step B โ€” Life used: Age รท Life
Step C โ€” Repeat-repair check: (R + Past) รท N

Life used under 50%Life used over 50%
Repair under 50% of newโœ… Repair๐Ÿค” Repair is usually fine. Check for other wear
Repair over 50% of new๐Ÿค” Get a second quote firstโŒ Replace

Repeat-repair rule: if Step C is over 50%, treat it like the bottom-right box: money keeps going into the same machine. And if the part is no longer available for your model, that decides it: replace.

Worked example 1 (illustrative numbers): A 3-year-old Maytag electric dryer tumbles but stays cold. One of its two breakers had tripped; resetting it fixes the heat. R = $0.
โ†’ Not a repair.

Worked example 2 (illustrative numbers): A 7-year-old Maytag electric dryer blew its thermal fuse; the vent was half blocked. A tech replaces the fuse and cleans the vent: R = $250; N = $1,000; no other repairs.
250 รท 1,000 = 25%; life used 7 รท 10 = 70%; repeat check 25% โ†’ Repair (top-right box: usually fine).

Worked example 3 (illustrative numbers): A 12-year-old Maytag gas dryer needs a control board, and last year it had an igniter and coils for $300. R = $450; N = $1,000.
450 รท 1,000 = 45%; life used 12 รท 10 = over 100%; repeat check (450 + 300) รท 1,000 = 75% โ†’ Replace.

Tips toward replacing: a control board on a dryer 10+ years old (Fixr says replacing likely makes more sense at that age), a second big repair within about 2 years, or a dryer that keeps blowing fuses even with a clean vent.
Tips toward repairing: it's a fuse, element, thermostat, igniter, or coil; the dryer is under about 8 years old; it's in year 1 or a 5-year model; or the failed part is the drive motor or drum (parts covered for 10 years on post-2017 Maytags, so you'd pay labor only).

Why 50%? It's the common rule of thumb, and the one Fixr uses for dryers: if the dryer is at least halfway through its life and the repair costs half the price of a new one, replace it. Some technician checklists draw the line a little higher, at about 60%, so treat a repair that costs 50โ€“60% of new as a second-quote zone, not an automatic replace. The older the dryer, the lower the line should go.

Who services Maytag dryers near you

1. Maytag (warranty or official service). In year 1, in a 5-year term, or for a drive-motor or drum failure within 10 years, start with Maytag.
โ†’ Maytag: warranty and service ยท Maytag Customer Service 1-800-344-1274

2. A partner appliance pro (out of warranty, or a gas dryer).
Our call line connects you with an independent appliance repair provider in your area. Tell them electric or gas, the code (if any), what the 5-minute heat test showed, and whether the vent was clogged; it speeds up the diagnosis.

Need a repair pro?
Our partner pro call line is coming soon. Until then: if your appliance may still be under warranty, contact the manufacturer first. Otherwise, get two or three written quotes from local appliance repair companies, and ask about the diagnostic fee and the parts-and-labor warranty.

3. A vent-cleaning service or electrician. For a long or crushed vent run, or for an L2 / 240-volt supply problem.

4. DIY with the right part. Thermal fuses, elements, and thermostats are common DIY jobs on electric dryers. Leave gas parts to a pro. Order by your exact model number.

Questions to ask any technician:

Optional: is an appliance warranty worth it?

A home warranty (service contract) can cover repairs for a yearly fee plus a per-visit service fee. Read the exclusions carefully: many plans exclude vent cleaning and problems caused by lint. A dryer that's already broken is usually not covered. Maytag also sells extended service plans and says buying within 30 days of purchase saves money.

FAQ

Why is my Maytag dryer running but not heating?
Maytag lists Air Only being selected, a tripped breaker (electric dryers have two, and one controls the heat), a wrong or loose power cord, low voltage, and a closed gas valve. After those, the usual failed parts are the thermal fuse, heating element or igniter, and thermostats.

How do I test if my Maytag dryer is heating?
Maytag says choose a heated Timed Dry cycle, run the empty dryer for 5 minutes, then open the door and feel inside.

What does AF mean on a Maytag dryer?
Restricted airflow: the lint screen or vent is clogged, crushed, kinked, or too long. Some models show F4 E3 instead. The dryer keeps running; touch any key to clear it, then clean the vent.

What does L2 mean on a Maytag dryer?
Low or no line voltage, which can keep the heater off. It shows at initial install. Check both breakers or fuses and the cord installation, switch the breakers off for 5 minutes, run a Timed Dry cycle, and call an electrician if it persists.

What does F3 E1 mean on a Maytag dryer?
An exhaust thermistor problem. Maytag says switch the breaker off for a minute, back on, run Timed Dry, and request service if it returns.

Is the heating element covered by Maytag's 10-year warranty?
No. Maytag's 10-year limited parts coverage for dryers lists the drive motor and dryer drum. The element and igniter are covered in year 1, or for 5 years on the specific models Maytag names.

Why does my Maytag dryer keep blowing thermal fuses?
Almost always a restricted vent making the dryer overheat; sometimes a failed cycling thermostat or element. Clean the vent fully before you replace the fuse.

How much does it cost to fix a Maytag dryer that won't heat?
OEM thermal fuses for Maytag dryers were about $15 to $49 and heating elements about $42 to $199 on Sears PartsDirect when we checked on 2026-10-30. Cost guides put a heating-element repair at $150 to $350 and a thermal fuse at $75 to $150 including labor; Fixr's Maytag dryer repairs range from $100 to $550.

Is it worth fixing a Maytag dryer that doesn't heat?
Usually yes: most no-heat parts are inexpensive. A control board on a dryer older than about 10 years often isn't. Use the calculator above.

About the author

Fix It or Replace editorial team โ€” We research appliance repairs using manufacturer documentation, parts-supplier data, and current US cost guides, and we cite every source below. We are not appliance technicians; for anything involving gas or wiring you're unsure about, call a qualified pro.
Last updated: 2026-10-30.

Sources

  1. Maytag Product Help (US): "Dryer is Not Heating" (5-minute empty heated Timed Dry test; Air Only / Air Fluff adds no heat and works best on Timed Dry; vent cleaning every one to two years; dryer vent test kit W11224254; electric: separate 30-amp circuit with two breakers, one for motor and one for heat; 240 V; 3- and 4-wire cord; tight terminal screws; gas: shutoff open when the handle is parallel to the pipe). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Product_Info/Dryer_Product_Assistance/Dryer_is_Not_Heating (accessed 2026-10-30)
  2. Maytag Product Help (US): "Not Heating - Electric Dryer", "Not Heating - Gas Dryer", and "Checking the Gas Supply and the Shutoff Valve" (heat test and Air Only; electric breakers and cord; gas valve and household breaker/fuse). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Dryer/Operation/Not_Heating/Not_Heating_-_Electric_Dryer ยท https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Dryer/Operation/Not_Heating/Not_Heating_-_Gas_Dryer ยท https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Product_Info/Dryer_Product_Assistance/Checking_the_Gas_Supply_and_the_Shutoff_Valve (accessed 2026-10-30)
  3. Maytag Product Help (US): "Error Codes in Dryers" (AF or F4 E3 restricted airflow, dryer keeps running, touch any key; F# E# requires service; L2 low or no line voltage, keeps the heater off, shows at initial install, check two fuses/breakers and cord; PF power failure, touch and hold START or press POWER). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Product_Info/Dryer_Product_Assistance/Error_Codes_in_Dryers (accessed 2026-10-30)
  4. Maytag Product Help (US): "L2 - Error Code - Dryer" (breakers off 5 minutes, on, Timed Dry, monitor 5 minutes; electrician if it persists). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Dryer/Error_Codes/Other_Error_Codes/L2_-_Error_Code_-_Dryer (accessed 2026-10-30)
  5. Maytag Product Help (US): "F3 E1 - Error Code - Dryer" (exhaust thermistor; breaker off 1 minute, on, Timed Dry, monitor 1 minute). https://producthelp.maytag.com/Laundry/Dryers/Dryer/Error_Codes/Starts_with_F/F3_E1_-_Error_Code_-_Dryer (accessed 2026-10-30)
  6. Maytag US: "Maytag 10-Year Limited Parts Warranty" (major appliances made after 2017; all parts and labor in year one; washers and dryers: drive motor, wash basket, dryer drum; MED6230RH and MGD6230RH labor covered for the first 5 years (5-year limited parts and labor plus 5-year limited parts on drive motors and drum); MEDP586KW and MGDP586KW all parts and labor for 5 years, single-family non-commercial use; extended service plan savings within 30 days). https://www.maytag.com/services/limited-10-year-warranty.html (accessed 2026-10-30)
  7. Maytag Product Help (US): customer service 1-800-344-1274 (listed on Maytag Product Help pages). https://producthelp.maytag.com/ (accessed 2026-10-30)
  8. U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission: recalls search. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls (accessed 2026-10-30)
  9. Federal Trade Commission: endorsement and affiliate disclosure guidance. https://www.ftc.gov/business-guidance/resources/ftcs-endorsement-guides-what-people-are-asking
  10. Part prices: Sears PartsDirect public search pages, see S-list below (accessed 2026-10-30).
  11. ApplianceDB free developer sample (Samsung and LG US codes with component, ranked fix, and DIY difficulty; no Maytag dryer entries, so not used for codes on this page). Data under the Open Database License (ODbL) v1.0. https://github.com/ApplianceDB/ApplianceDB-public (accessed 2026-10-30)
  12. Repair cost guides: Fixr (G1) and HomeGuide (G2), see list below (accessed 2026-10-30).

Part price sources (Sears PartsDirect public search results, USD, accessed 2026-10-30; prices change, confirm with your model number):

Pro-cost guide sources [GUIDE] (US national averages, parts + labor, not brand-specific quotes unless marked; the guide pages carry 2024โ€“2025 dates, so local quotes may differ):

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